A methodology for short staple fibre microspinning: evaluation of the method on 30 cotton varieties

Frydrych Richard, Héquet Eric, Dréan Jean-Yves. 2000. A methodology for short staple fibre microspinning: evaluation of the method on 30 cotton varieties. In : 1992 Procceedings Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Herber Douglas J. (ed.). NCC. Memphis : National Cotton Council, 14 p. Beltwide Cotton Conferences, Nashville, États-Unis, 6 Janvier 1992/11 Janvier 1992.

Résumé : The criteria of fibre sorting such as the length, tenacity, fineness, maturity cannot be used to assess the quality of the different cotton varieties; yet they sometimes remain insufficient . And so the raw fibre has to be spun for evaluating other parameters . A methodology of microspinning whereby 50 to 500 g of cotton fibres can be spun, will be stated with which the reseacher and spinner's investigation scope can be widenened for obtaining reasonnable costs and accurate results. The knowledge of the physical characteristics of the cotton fibre has become a main target. In actual fact, to meet the needs of the market due partly to the evolution of spinning processes, it is indispensable to get more information on the fibre quality and more accurate information on the yarn quality [11]. Today, for measuring the technological characteristics of the fibres, quick techniques such as HVI (High Volume Instrument) are used for commercial sorting and varieties improvement programs, except for some practical caution mesures in the second case, i.e. number of repetitions, blending of samples [6]. Nevertheless, these fibre sorting criteria (length, tenacity, fineness, maturity) are insufficient to evaluate the quality of final products e.g. yarns and fabrics and hence, it is necessary to spin the raw fibres. The evaluation of the yarn quality is necessay for both research and spinning. In case of varietal improvement, the seed selector is creating cotton varieties which have to be adapted to the main and currently-used spinning techniques (ring and rotor spinning); he has also to set a gene bank. During the first stages of a cotton variety creation process, he has only a few 100 grammes on his hands with which he will have to determine the physical properties such as tenacity, eveness, SCF, the number of neps, immature fibres [2,3]. And the spinner will have the same job to perform. In order to meet the expectation, the Technological Laboratory of GIRAD-CA has developed a specific microspinning methodology which is original because it consists in processing, on this microspinning system, both very small quantities of cotton fibres (50g) necessary to evaluate the varietal improvement [3] and bigger quantities ranging from 500g to 700g necessary for reseachers and spinners to evaluate the behaviour of cotton fibres in the spinning processes, among which, the study of the influence of impurities on the quality of the yarn [1,5]. who have shown how much efficient this technique is . Hence, the yarn length produced may be used to weave fabrics [12] and to carry out different kinds of tests such as that of dyeing affinity.

Auteurs et affiliations

• Frydrych Richard
• Héquet Eric
• Dréan Jean-Yves

Source : Cirad-Agritrop (https://agritrop.cirad.fr/607047/)

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